Phophonyane Nature Reserve

The Phophonyane Nature Reserve, a private nature reserve, lies about 10km north of Piggs Peak and nestles in a forested hillside above the tumbling Phophonyane river, incorporating the attractive Phophonyane Falls. The gorgeous lodge has a beguiling natural ambience, with its cluster of buildings, all painted in African ochres and adorned with hangings and frescoes, smuggled discreetly into the lush subtropical vegetation. Nature runs rampant, with birdsong blending into the ubiquitous trickle of running water. Accommodation ranges from rustic cottages to safari tents and upgraded beehive huts. Day visitors can enjoy the restaurant, trails and natural rock swimming pool.

Phophonyane’s quiet trails are home to plentiful wildlife. You may spot a timid red duiker or troop of banded mongooses, while vervet monkeys often hang around the lodge. Among some 240 recorded birds, pride of place goes to the dazzling narina trogon, an elusive gem that forms the reserve logo.

If it doesn’t fly, it slithers. Abundant reptile life at Phophonyane ranges from pretty (harmless) spotted bush snakes camouflaged in the undergrowth to rainbow skinks dashing across rocky outcrops. Owner Rod de Vletter has stories of big black mambas and pythons, although snakes – as everywhere – are seldom seen. Meanwhile, among the more conspicuous mini-beasts are a profusion of millipedes, and kite spiders that string their webs across forest trails.

The lodge organises guided walks into the community, where you can visit the primary school, and hikes along the nearby Gobolondo mountain ridge, with panoramic views north over the Makhonjwa mountains and east towards the Lubombo escarpment. An easier though less deserving way to enjoy the views from Gobolondo is on a guided drive in one of the lodge’s 4×4 vehicles, complete with picnic lunch at the top. Excursions to other local attractions, such as Nsangwini, can also be arranged.